Seventeen Rows is Quealy’s most savoury and complex wine. It’s crammed with old-vine intensity and has serious structure; and dare we say it, it’s more Burgundian than the other Pinots in the range. A unique product of this site and these vines, the 2019 may look a little lighter in the glass, but looks can be deceiving. There is an earthy, savoury intensity here that comes from both the site and the age of the vines, a feature also evident on the palate—which has the kind of engaging old-vine creaminess, nuance and texture we don’t often see in Australian Pinots.